When my daughter was born, a friend of my mom gave us a stack of flannel receiving blankets similar to these. To be honest, I wasn’t very excited — what was I going to do with a bunch of squares of flannel? Ridiculous!
I was SO wrong. Those flannel blankets ended up being the single most useful thing we had for our baby. We used them for impromptu changing pads, tummy time, burp cloths, swaddling cloths, baby carrier sun shades, stroller sun shades, car sun shades, or any time we needed to protect either the baby or the surface from the other. We used them in the car, on trips, at the park, at home. We used those blankets well into her toddler years—every single day until they were completely worn out.
So when a friend of mine was about to have her first granddaughter, I knew immediately EXACTLY what I wanted to give the expecting Mom. I came up with my own design to add the decorative flange around the edge. The project does include a few inches of hand-stitching, but I was still able to finish all four of these blankets in an afternoon. Here’s how I make them:
Step 1: Gather Supplies
For each receiving blanket you will need:
-
1 yard flannel for the front
-
1 yard flannel for the back
-
Cutting tools (rotary cutter, mat & ruler OR ruler, pencil and scissors)
-
Cloth measuring tape
-
Needle & thread
-
Chopstick or other blunt tool
-
Straight pins
-
Sewing machine
I chose to make the front and back contrasting flannels, but you could make them all the same. You need a total of 2 yards for each blanket, 1 for the front and 1 for the back. Please, be sure to buy quality flannel from a quilting shop or reputable online shop!! Inexpensive flannel will pill almost instantly, so if you want them to last, buy quality!
Since I am a quilter, I prefer to use my quilting mat, rotary cutter and ruler, but you can also use a straight edge, pencil and scissors. I will give alternative instructions at each step.
You can also hand-sew this entire project if you don’t have a sewing machine. Just use a basic running stitch everywhere there is machine stitching.
Step 2: Fold Flannel for Cutting
Take your first piece of flannel and fold it selvedge to selvedge edge. You can be sure that it is on the straight of grain by making sure that there are no wrinkles on the folded edge. Then fold the selvedges toward the folded edge so that the entire piece of fabric has been folded in half twice making a long skinny strip with the raw edges on the end.
Step 3: Square Up the Raw End
Position your ruler so it is square with the edge of the fabric and double check to make sure that all of the raw edges are to the right of the ruler. You don’t want to cut the fabric and find out later that it’s too short!
Once you’re sure all the edges will get caught in the cut, then use your rotary cutter to cut off the end.
If you are using scissors, mark a line with a pencil and cut with scissors.
Step 4: Measure and Mark
Flip the fabric around, keeping the edges lined up. Using a cloth measuring tape, measure from the cut end over to 35” and place a straight pin to mark the spot. If for some reason your flannel is too short (this sometimes happens with extra shrinkage), find the largest measurement that will fit and make sure to make all the pieces the same measurement going forward. I have made cloths as small as 30” and they work fine.
Step 5: Cut to Length
Place your ruler at the spot where the pin is. Here’s a close up:
Make sure the ruler is square to the edge and tight with the pin. Remove the pin and cut the end off with the rotary cutter. (Again, if you are using scissors, mark with pencil and cut with scissors).
Step 6: Cut a Tie
Before you move on, take the cut piece from the end and cut yourself a 1”-2” strip to use as a tie for later.
Step 7: Refold the Flannel
Unfold your flannel and refold it with the cut edges the long way, edge to edge and then again. You should now have a long skinny strip with the selvedge edges on the short end as pictured above.
Step 8: Trim off the Selvedge Edge
Position the ruler square and cut off the selvedge edge.
Step 9: Measure and Mark
As before, use the cloth tape measure to measure 35” and mark with a pin. (If you are using a different measurement, use the same one every time).
Step 10: Cut the Final End
Position the ruler at the pin position, remove the pin and cut off the end of the fabric.
You can save this larger piece for using in another project.
You should now have your first piece of flannel measuring 35” square.
Step 11: Cut and Position Back
Using the same instructions as for the front, cut your second piece of flannel for the back. Open up both pieces and position them right sides together, matching up all the edges and corners. You can brush the flannel with your hands like a broom to gently adjust the position.
Step 12: Pin
To be honest, I rarely pin things, but in this case I do. Because the two pieces of fabric are so large, you are likely to have movement and end up with the edges or corners not matching. To prevent this, pin around all edges.
Step 13: Sew Around Edges
With your sewing machine (or by hand if you are sewing by hand), sew around the edges of the two pieces of flannel using a 1/2’“ seam allowance. but don’t go all the way! Leave an opening approximately 8”-10” long along one edge. Be sure to backstitch at the beginning and ending of your stitching.
When you are finished, you should have an opening along the edge.
Step 14: Turn
Turn the project right side out by pushing all of the fabric through the opening.
Step 15: Refine the Seams and Corners
Use a blunt took to run along the edges and corners from the inside (put your arm through the hole) so the fabric is completely turned. You can use a chopstick or the handle of a butter knife. I personally use a burnishing tool that my husband gave me (it is an art supply item that he had on hand). Just be sure it is blunt!! Don’t use a pair of scissor points, for example, as you will likely poke through the seams! (Learned that the hard way!)
Poke the tool into the corners to get them as square as possible.
Step 16: Press
Now you should have a right-side-out square of double-thickness flannel with some floppy seams. Using your iron, carefully press around all the corners and edges so they are nice and flat. I usually use my fingers and rub/roll along the edge to make sure it’s not getting caught inside.
Where the seam is open, press the edges in so it forms a continuous line with the stitched section.
This is how your edges should look:
Step 17: Close the Opening
We’re on the home stretch!! You should now have something that is starting to look like a receiving blanket, except for the seam that is still open.
Close the opening using the Ladder Stitch, which is a running stitch but where the stitches switch sides of the opening. If you need more help on this stitching technique, check out my tutorial How to Sew: Ladder Stitch Tutorial.
Step 18: Measure and Mark the Flange
You are almost done! All that is left is to topstitch the flange. The flange is not only decorative, it helps keep the receiving blanket flat and square in the wash.
Use your ruler to measure 2 1/2” from each corner. Mark with pins.
In addition, find a 2 1/2” measuring mark on the bed of your sewing machine. If you don’t have one, use a piece of painters tape to tape a guide 2 1/2” from your needle.
Step 19: Topstitch the Flange
Using your guides on the bed of the sewing machine and the corners of the blanket, topstitch 2 1/2” from the edge, all the way around the blanket. Backstitch at the corners for added durability.
You Are Finished!
Congratulations!
You have finished your baby receiving blanket!
Now that you know how to make one, you can make several. They are so fast and easy to make they make excellent gifts, especially when rolled in a little bundle and sent along with a cuddly friend.
I hope you’ll enjoy making these. If you do, definitely let me know! Comment below or come on over to on Facebook or Instagram. In the meantime, here’s to a snuggly afternoon!
Leave a Reply