How to Choose a Cloth Face Mask Pattern

When the call came for cloth face masks, first for the tireless medical personnel and then for everyone, I was willing to jump in but was overwhelmed by all of the different patterns and features.

I had so many questions. What was the difference between a pleated or shaped mask? Was one better than the other? What about all the different tie styles and positions? What about the sewing instructions—would I understand them or enjoy them? What would I do about the elastic shortage?

I made and tested several different masks so I could understand the various mask types and features. I’ve compiled what I’ve learned here so you can get all the information without having to make dozens of masks like I did!

Before we jump in, if you already understand the features and just want a run-down of pattern options, head over to my Free Cloth Face Mask Pattern Guide.

If you’re new to cloth masks, you might also find it helpful to check out the article Frequently Asked Questions about Cloth Face Masks.

Otherwise, let’s continue:

Cloth Mask Features Guide Overview

• What are the different styles of face masks?

• Should I choose a shaped or pleated mask pattern?

• What additional features are there for face masks?

• Should I choose a mask pattern with a nose wire?

• Should I choose a mask pattern with a filter pocket?

• What are the different materials used for mask ties & bands?

• What are the different style of mask ties & bands?

• What are the different ways the mask ties & bands attach to the masks?

• What type of tie should I choose?

What are the different styles of face masks?

In general, most masks come in one of two types—pleated or shaped (also referred to as contoured):

Pleated

The pleated masks use a flat piece of fabric that is pleated on the sides to create an accordion shape which will fit over the face. We found that the accordion created a nice pocket of space in front of the mouth, tended to stay in place while talking and were more forgiving in fit, but were more likely to rub against lower part of the eye. Most of them are constructed using a flat piece of fabric which is then folded and sewn to make pleats.

Shaped / Contoured

The shaped masks use pattern pieces (similar to sewing clothing) that have curved seams to create the contours to fit around the face. We found that the shaped masks were closer fitting and had the potential to have fewer gaps, but were more likely to come off the nose when talking and the fit varied widely depending on how closely the pattern contours matched the contours of our face.

Should I choose a shaped or pleated mask pattern?

Choosing a cloth face mask pattern is a personal choice depending on what you prefer to sew and what you prefer to wear. But here are some thoughts that might help you decide.

Pleated

You might like a pleated mask pattern if:

• You like the idea of a mask with a flexible fit

• You prefer the pleated/accordian style

• You will be talking frequently while wearing the mask

• You are willing to measure and mark pleats or guesstimate where pleats should go

• You are comfortable sewing through multiple layers to make pleats

• You don’t want to sew curves or dimensional items

• You are making masks to donate and the recipient has requested pleated masks

Shaped / Contoured

You might like a shaped mask pattern if:

• You like the idea of a contoured mask

• You prefer the flat/shaped style

• You need a mask that gives the maximum room around your eyes

• You are willing to adjust the pattern or try a different pattern if the contours don’t fit your face

• You are comfortable sewing curves

• You don’t want to sew through multiple layers to make pleats

• You are making masks to donate and the recipient has requested shaped / contoured masks

What additional features are there for face masks?

The two most common features for cloth face masks are nose wires and filter pockets.

Nose Wires

Nose wires are a small bit of wire or metal at the top of the mask that is intended to bend and mold to the bridge of the nose. Nose wires can adjust the fit of the mask, make the mask more comfortable, and close gaps at the top of the cheeks that can cause exhaled air to blow upwards toward the eyes or fog glasses, but require extra steps when constructing the mask and can make the mask more difficult to wash. Some patterns have the wire inserted into the mask and cannot be removed for washing or if the wire breaks. Some patterns have a pocket or hole that allows the wires to be removed for washing or replaced if they break.

Filter Pockets

Filter pockets are an extra opening in the mask that allow the wearer to insert additional material for added filtering. There are many types of filtration that have been suggested in various article on the internet, but the most common are coffee filters, high thread count sheets, and unfolded HEPA filter material. It is unclear whether adding these loose layers of filtration will significantly improve the effectiveness of the mask, but for many people the extra peace of mind is worth it. The filter material usually has to be removed between mask wearings and washings and depending on the pattern can be cumbersome to insert and remove. Some patterns use a separate pocket and some just leave an opening in the seam to create a pocket.

Should I choose a mask pattern with a nose wire?

For those who use nose wires, choosing them seems to be based on comfort and fit primarily, but I am not a medical professional and I cannot tell you whether a nose wire will make your mask more or less effective. But here are some thoughts to help you decide:

Nose Wire

You might want a mask with a nose wire if:

• You wear glasses and want to prevent fogging

• You have sensitive eyes and/or air blowing up on your eyes will bother you

• You will be wearing your mask frequently or for long periods of time

• You feel more secure with a nose wire

• You will enjoy making a more complex mask with the extra steps to add a nose wire or nose wire sleeve

• You are making masks to donate and the recipient has requested masks with nose wires

No Nose Wire

You might want a mask without a nose wire if:

• You don’t wear glasses

• You will be wearing your cloth mask infrequently or for short periods of time

• You don’t feel like you need extra features

• You want to make a simple mask that doesn’t have a lot of extra steps

• You are making masks to donate and the recipient has requested masks without nose wires

Should I choose a mask pattern with a filter pocket?

I am not a medical professional and I can’t really advise you on whether or not a filter pocket or extra filtration is going to benefit you or change the effectiveness of your mask. Whether or not you choose a pattern with a filter pocket boils down to what you want to sew and what you want to wear. But here are some thoughts to help you decide:

Filter Pocket

You might want a mask with a filter pocket if:

• You know you are going to want to add extra filtration and need that feature

• You most often use your mask around other people and would feel more comfortable using extra filtration

• You feel comfortable choosing filter material and have access to material you would use

• You will enjoy making a more complex mask with the extra steps to add a filter pocket

• You are making masks to donate and the recipient has requested masks with nose wires

No Filter Pocket

You might want a mask without a filter pocket if:

• You know you won’t be adding extra filtration and don’t need that feature

• You don’t spend time with other people while wearing your mask and don’t feel like extra filtration is necessary

• You don’t feel comfortable choosing filter material

• You want to make a simple mask that doesn’t have a lot of extra steps

• You are making masks to donate and the recipient has requested masks without nose wires

What are the different materials used for mask ties & bands?

Tie material options are generally chosen either by the availability of the material or how stretchy the mask wearer prefers to have their ties. Some people like stretchy ties and some people are vehemently against stretchy ties. This is mostly down to personal preference and what you happen to have on hand.

Elastic

Fabric

Jersey / T-Shirt

• Elastic – Uses elastic cord or flat elastic between 1/8” and 1/4” to make stretchy bands that loop over ears or around the head. Elastic is convenient and comfortable, but bands may not fit everyone as well as possible, may cause ear pain or fatigue (for ear loops) and at the time of this writing can be hard to source. In addition, some medical groups feel that elastic quickly loses it’s stretch when subjected to commercial washing and sterilization methods.

• Fabric Ties – Uses long strips of fabric on the straight of grain (not bias) folded and sewn to make a fabric tie. It can additionally be used to finish raw edges. Fabric ties create a flexible fit and can be made out of fabric on hand, but can potentially get tangled in hair when tying and require ironing and sewing narrow strips of fabric. In addition, they provide a tight, secure fit without stretch, which some people prefer.

• Bias Tape Ties – Uses bias tape, usually pre-made and packaged, to create the fabric ties as above. Bias tape ties are a good option if you have bias tape on hand or enjoy making bias tape. Bias tape has a slight stretch in it which is a good compromise between a stretchy or non-stretchy tie. Commercial bias tape is not 100% cotton, however, and some people feel that it will not hold up as well in the wash and will shrink at a different rate than the recommended 100% cotton mask fabric.

• Ribbon Ties – Uses ribbons to make ties. Ribbons are pretty and have little to no stretch, but can be slippery and may not stay tied. Ribbons can also unravel in the wash and become frayed with frequent tying or stress. It is also not usually 100% cotton, which some medical groups feel doesn’t sterilize as thoroughly as 100% cotton.

• Woven Tape Ties – Uses woven cloth tape such as twill tape. Woven tape or twill tape is 100% cotton, wears well and will provide a strong, non-stretchy tie. However, it isn’t as common and may not be as easy to find.

• Jersey Knit Ties (aka T-Shirt Ties) – Uses jersey knit fabric “yarn” cut from jersey fabric or t-shirt material. Jersey knit yarn makes a stretchy tie which doesn’t require seams, doesn’t ravel and wears well. This is a good option for people who prefer a stretchy tie. It is also easy to come by if you use old t-shirts. The fiber content will vary based on what you are using—some jersey knit is 100% cotton and some is a blend of cotton and polyester. Still other knits contain spandex.

What are the different styles of mask ties & bands?

Over the Ears

Early on, this was the default style of mask pattern because it was the most similar to the surgical masks used in medical settings. Unfortunately it turns out that wearing elastic or ties over your ears for more than a few minutes causes pain and ear fatigue. It’s not recommended that you use an elastic over the ears tie method unless you have specifically been asked to make that style of tie.

Behind the Head

This is the most common and most comfortable type of tie. Either a set of elastic bands that go behind the head, or fabric or jersey-knit ties that are tied behind the head. Elastic bands give you a stretchy fit but because they are fixed in length will not fit every person. Fabric ties give you a flexible fit and a non-stretchy tie, but have to be re-tied every time and can pull hair. Jersey knit ties are the same as fabric ties but a little stretchy like elastic.

Single Loop

This uses a single loop of elastic or tie that threads through a channel on each side of the mask then ties in only one place. The mask is put on over the head with one loop going around the neck, then tied at the top of the head. This allows for a custom fit for each person, but only one tie. Alternatively, the tie can be knotted and used without re-tying.

What are the different ways the mask ties & bands attach to the masks?

Corner Sewn

In this case you attach the ties to each corner of the mask, usually on a pattern that you sew everything then turn it right side out and top stitch everything down

Binding

This pattern style has you make the mask with raw edges, then use fabric strips to cover the edges and make the tie as well

Channel

The edges of the mask or another piece of fabric are sewn over the edges of the mask to make a channel hat a tie can be threaded through. Some groups do not like channel-based ties because the ties slip out during the laundering process and nobody has time to re-thread them. If you use a mask with channels, you might want to go with a single loop of elastic or tie that gets knotted for the person wearing it and can’t come out.

What type of tie should I choose?

This boils down to a combination of preference and supplies. In general, just use what you have on hand, what you enjoy sewing or what you enjoy wearing. As always, if you are sewing to donate to a medical or care facility, use the pattern and tie style they have asked for.

In my house, I don’t have elastic, stretchy knit fabric, commercial bias tape or other notions like that. What I do have is a lot of quilting cotton and I’m comfortable making fabric ties from scratch so that’s what I’m doing.

Again, if you are donating, ask them what they want!! Or they don’t want channels because the ties fall out and nobody has time to re-thread them. Other groups prefer cloth ties and don’t want elastic both because it can cause ear fatigue but also because the elastic gives out under the high-temp laundering required for sterilization. Ask before you sew!

So again, what do you have on hand, what do you want to work with and what is being requested?

That’s It!

I hope that going over all the different features and details of masks helped you understand how the various mask types works so you can choose a mask (or mask pattern) for yourself.

I also have a round-up of cloth mask patterns (with which features they have), and a list of frequently asked questions about cloth masks. You can check those out here:

• Free Cloth Face Mask Patterns to Make at Home

• Frequently Asked Questions about Cloth Face Masks

If you try making a cloth face mask, let me know! Or if you have a particular mask you enjoy or a great piece of information you’ve discovered, go ahead and leave it in the comments below.

Many thanks to the generosity of photographers whose work is shared for free on Unsplash: Kelly Sikkema.